The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind

ISBN: 9780521121040 出版年：2004 页码：310 Peter Janssen Cambridge University Press

The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind is the first book to describe in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on time scales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean-wave evolution according to the energy balance equation, which describes the rate of wave-spectrum change by advection and by physical processes such as wind input, dissipation and nonlinear interactions. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave–atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean-wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.