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Boccaccio; and a dish of leeks cooked with spices appears as a special dish in the rules of the chapter of San Lorenzo when the canons messed together. Old Laschi, author of that delightful book l'osservatore F iorentina, moral ises on the ancient fashion of cooking in his pleasant rather prosy way: 'it would not seem that the senses should be subjected to fashion 3 and yet such is the case. The perfumes, once so pleasing, musk, amber, and benzoin, now excite convulsions; sweet wines, such as Pis ciancio, Verdea, Montalcino, and others men tioned by Redi in his dithyrambic, are now despised; and instead of the heavy dishes of olden times, light and elegant ones are in vogue. Whoever characterised man as a laughing animal ought rather to have called him a variable and inconstant one.'
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