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Cooking is a gift, not an art. Eating is an art, not a gift. In combination a grace is developed. No great culinary triumph was ever perfected by accident. Charles Lamb's essay on roast pig was responsible for a tidal wave of burnt pork that swept over England in the nineteenth century. Mr. Lamb led a hungry em pire to the belief that only through an act of incendiarism could a suckling porker be converted into a delicacy; Whereas, as a matter of fact, the perfection of roast pork, golden-brown and unseared by fire, were possible only in the oven.
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